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Portugal through my eyes: Riding, wining, and dining

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Portugal through my eyes: Riding, wining, and dining

Lirene CilliersBy Lirene Cilliers   Posted 31st Dec 2024

Earlier this year, I was lucky enough to land in Portugal for the first time — passport in hand, cycling shoes packed, and an agenda full of “work” (if you can call previewing routes for new tours work!).  

Portugal had been on my list for ages, and now that I’ve been, I can say it’s everything people rave about —  and then some. Between the jaw-dropping scenery, food that deserves its own fan club, and wines that make you question why you drink anything else, this trip was one for the books. I even gave port wine another shot —and spoiler: I’m a convert.  

But before we get ahead of ourselves, let’s start at the beginning, where Lisbon rolled out its pastel welcome mat and set the tone for everything to come. Here’s a little highlight reel of the moments that made this trip an instant favorite. 

First Impressions – Lisbon’s Timeless Beauty 

Flying into Lisbon felt like someone had spilled a box of pastels over a sprawling canvas. Everywhere I looked—white-washed walls gleaming like polished pearls, splashes of soft yellows, baby blues, and blush pinks—all crowned with terracotta rooftops that seem straight out of a painting. It’s not just pretty; it’s meticulously pretty. Portugal takes its architectural heritage seriously, and the traditional neighborhoods—where these gorgeous scenes are preserved—are a testament to that. Wandering through them feels like time-traveling, except with much better snacks and far more photo ops. 

But let’s talk about those white buildings—because they don’t play around on a sunny day. Bring sunglasses. No, really. I learned this the hard way, squinting down cobbled streets while snapping photos of everything in sight. Lisbon doesn’t just “look good”—it glows, and it will blind you in the most beautiful way possible. 

What makes it even better? Lisbon isn’t trying to show off. It just is. The terracotta, the pastels, the effortless beauty—it’s all part of the city’s DNA. You can’t help but pause at every turn, probably to take another picture or just to remind yourself this place is real. It’s the kind of charm that makes you think, “Oh, I could live here,” or at the very least, “I’ll need a much bigger camera roll.” 

Welcome to Wine Country 

If you’ve ever dreamed of a place where wine practically grows on trees (spoiler: it almost does here), welcome to Portugal. This country doesn’t just do wine; it lives and breathes it. From the rolling vineyards of the Douro Valley to the quiet corners of local grocery stores, wine is everywhere, and it’s spectacular. I’m talking about bottles so good you’ll feel like you’re cheating the system — perfectly sippable at €5, with world-class stunners topping out around €30-40. Portugal proves you don’t need a bottomless wallet to have a bottomless glass. 

The best part? It’s not one-size-fits-all. The country is split into distinct wine-growing regions, each with its own personality. Reds that hug your tastebuds, crisp whites that refresh like a summer breeze, and of course, port that deserves its own fan club (but we’ll get to that in a minute). Each region is like a new chapter of a book you can’t put down — every sip telling a story of sun-soaked vines, rich soil, and generations of tradition. 

Pop into any grocery store, and you’ll be spoiled for choice. I stared at the shelves like a kid in a candy store, trying to decide which “research bottle” (yes, that’s what we’re calling it) to take back to my hotel. And here’s the kicker: even the budget-friendly wines taste like something you’d save for a special occasion. If you’re a wine lover, Portugal is paradise! 

Giving Port a Second Chance 

I’ll admit it: port and I weren’t exactly besties before this trip. I’d tried it once or twice in the past and thought, “Meh, not for me.” But Portugal? Oh, it flipped the script. I found myself in Porto and the Douro Valley — the homeland of port — and suddenly, this fortified wine became the main character of my tastebuds’ story. 

What blew me away was the sheer variety. Forget that syrupy image you might have in your head — port comes in all shapes and personalities. From ruby to tawny, vintage to white, each type has a vibe and backstory of its own. I sipped my way through vineyards that have been perfecting their craft for centuries, listening to winemakers wax lyrical about that year’s climate and how it shaped the flavor. (Pro tip: don’t try to keep up with their wine knowledge — just nod, sip, and smile.) 

And just when I thought I’d seen it all, I met white port. Yes, white port!  

The game-changer? A Port & Tonic. Yes, you read that correctly! Take white port, add tonic water, a slice of orange, and enough ice to keep things frosty, and you’ve got the ultimate summer cocktail. Served in a balloon glass, it’s refreshing, a little sophisticated, and dangerously sippable. 

Let’s just say I did my due diligence in “researching” this combo… multiple times. For science, of course. So, when you find yourself in Porto or cruising through the Douro Valley, give port another shot (or two). Like me, you’ll probably leave with a new favorite drink and a newfound respect for the rich, velvety wonder that is port wine. Cheers to second chances! 

Portuguese Food – Tarts, Sardines, and Glorious Fruit 

Ah, the food. If Portugal had a slogan, it’d probably be “Come hungry, leave very, very happy.” There’s something about eating here that feels less like a meal and more like a cultural experience — one flaky pastry or grilled sardine at a time. 

Let’s start with the pastries. You’ve heard of the iconic pastel de nata, but until you’ve bitten into one fresh from the oven, you don’t really know pastel de nata. The crisp, golden layers of flaky pastry, the creamy custard that’s just the right mix of sweet and caramelized… it’s basically perfection in edible form. And the Portuguese don’t stop at just one kind of pastry — walk into any bakery and you’ll find treats that’ll make you wish for bigger pants. 

Then there are the sardines — simple, fresh, and straight off the grill. If you’re not a sardine person yet, Portugal might just change your mind. These little silver beauties are charred to smoky, salty goodness, served with a squeeze of lemon and maybe some crusty bread. They’re a staple for a reason — flavorful, unpretentious, and oh-so-addictive. Before I knew it, I was developing a full-on craving. Sardines are everywhere here, but each bite feels like a celebration of Portugal’s deep connection to the sea. 

And let’s talk fruit. As someone who doesn’t often get access to affordable stone fruit, I was living my best life in Portugal. Peaches, nectarines, apricots, and cherries so juicy they should come with a warning label. I swear, I was just casually walking down the street, munching on an entire kilo of cherries like it was the most normal thing in the world. (It wasn’t normal, but it was glorious.)  

Portugal is a dream for anyone who loves good food. Forget eating three square meals — you’ll want to snack, sip, and savor your way through every street corner and market stall. 

Riding Through the Douro Valley 

While Portugal is best experienced with a wine glass in hand soaking up the sun, I'm here to tell you there is an even better way... on two wheels, of course! I hit the hills of the Douro Valley on an e-bike, and suddenly, Portugal became a whole new world — no exaggeration. Really. I think I'm UNDER exaggerating. 

First off, let’s talk scenery. The Douro Valley is like a painting come to life — rolling vineyards, terraced hillsides, and small, charming villages nestled along the river. Being a valley pretty much guarantees the presence of some hills. Every turn had me gasping in awe (and I wasn’t even working up a sweat, thanks to the e-bike).  

The gentle hills gave me just enough of a challenge to feel like I was earning my views, but the electric assist? Game. Changer. As someone who loves the thrill of downhills, I was living my best life gliding through the valley with nothing but pure joy and the occasional “wow” escaping my lips. Seriously, you could not have wiped the grin off my face if you tried. 

But the best part? Ending the ride at a riverside winery, where I had time to tour the estate and cellars, learning all about the traditional methods of Port production (which, of course, included tasting a few glasses — research purposes, you know). It was the perfect end to an unforgettable ride — breathtaking views, incredible history, and a glass of some of the best wine I’ve ever tasted.

The whole day was a sensory overload in the best way possible, and I can’t recommend it enough. 

Looking Ahead 

I can’t help but feel the pull to return to Portugal — it’s that kind of place that stays with you long after you’ve left. 

Our new Portugal bike tour is officially launched, and it covers several incredible spots I didn’t get a chance to see. Picture this: cycling through ancient olive groves and medieval trails, all leading to the Douro Valley, where you’ll even hop on a boat to cruise through the heart of it. Along the way, indulge in farm-fresh produce bursting with local flavors and cruise the Douro River past vineyards and rustic villages. Six days of adventuring (and eating...) never looked so good!  

Ready to ride? Explore Portugal by bike! 

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